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What is Bias Binding? How to use Bias Tape in Dressmaking
Are you new to sewing and wondering exactly what is bias binding? Well you have come to the right place. Here we will give aspiring dressmakers all the information you need to use bias binding in your next project. And if you want to shop, we have one of the biggest range of Bias Bindings in the UK.
Firstly, what exactly is bias binding? And when to use it?
Bias binding simply refers to a narrow strip of fabric, which is cut on the bias. Dressmakers will use it to cover the raw edges of material to give a neat finish. This is because lots of fabric will often fray and look a bit untidy on the edges when they are cut. The bias binding will neaten these edges up by folding around the raw edge, with each edge of the bias stitched to your main fabric of choice.
What do you mean to cut on the bias?
A bias cut or to cut on the bias simply means to cut diagonally across the fabric. If you imagine a fabric on the roll, the width will simply be the width of the roll. The length will be what comes off the roll as you unroll it. If you cut off a metre and then cut that metre piece diagonally across, you will be cutting on the bias. Cutting on the bias can add a bit of stretch meaning it is a bit more malleable and flexible, much needed qualities in bias binding. Find out more about cutting on the bias here
How wide is Bias Binding?
Although always narrow, It can come in different widths, materials, colours and patterns so you can find the perfect match for finishing your dressmaking project. We sell our bias tape in two main widths, 18mm and 30mm. The extra wide 30mm bias tape is especially handy for bulkier fabric but also for those a little newer to sewing. Bias can be a little fiddly to work with and added width makes covering raw edges that bit easier.
What material is bias binding?
We get asked this quite a lot. Like with boucle fabric or gingham, bias binding is not defined by the material used to make it. By that we mean a gingham fabric could be linen or cotton, as the word gingham refers to the check pattern as opposed to the fibre the fabric is made of. Bias Binding is defined by being a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias. It could be made from any fibre and still be considered bias binding.
However, with that being said, the most common materials that bias binding are made from include cotton, polyester and we have linen bias binding too.
What are the different types of bias?
Bias binding also referred to as bias tape can come in many different styles. We offer a fab range of picot bias binding, which is bias binding with a decorative edge caused by lots of loops decorating the border.
We also offer a huge range of bias piping. Bias piping, is very similar to bias binding but instead of being flat is the shape of a pipe, hence piping. Piping cord is simply a trim that forms a narrow tube, often used to accessorise, and add detail to the edge of a garment and is often made using bias binding. Like bias binding it is used to finish raw edges and for decoration and is particularly popular with interior projects such as finishing the edges of cushions.
What is the difference between bias binding and facing? And between facing and interfacing?
Remember, as mentioned earlier in this blog that bias binding refers to a narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias. That means to be cut diagonally, which often means it has a bit of extra stretch. Facing is often used to finish raw edges too such as the neckline on a jumper but this is a strip of fabric cut out of the fabric in the shape it is intended to fit to. So for a neckline, it would be cut out of fabric in that shape and then attached.
An interfacing tends to be sturdier and is used to add strength and support to a garment, such as for a collar on a shirt.
Tips for using bias binding?
Use an extra wide bias when working with bulkier fabrics to make sure you have enough width to finish the edge comfortably.
Use a bias that contrasts the colour of the main fabric to add extra detail to your garment and for it to stand out.
If possible, try and use a binding that is the same fabric type as your main fabric.
When using a fabric with stretch, such as a jersey, try and ensure your bias binding also has an element of stretch so it comfortably stretches when the jersey does and ensures it doesn’t snap.
Happy Sewing.