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What is Cable Knit Jersey and what to use it for?

Beginner's Guides | Jersey Joe Higgs October 10th, 2023

What is Cable Knit Jersey?

Cable knit jersey is a double knit fabric, meaning that it is made up of two layers of fabric that are knitted together. This gives the fabric a more stable structure and makes it less likely to stretch out. The cable pattern is created by crossing over and twisting stitches as the fabric is knitted, which creates a raised, textured pattern that is both stylish and functional.

It is also a soft and comfortable fabric to wear and with it being stretchy, it can mean it is flattering on a variety of body types. Cable knit jersey is typically made from a blend of polyester, viscose, and lycra. This blend gives the fabric a good balance of stretch, durability, and drape. At Higgs & Higgs we will always detail the fabric composition in the item specifics midway down the product page so you know exactly what you are buying.

Dressmaking tips when working with Cable Knits

Cable knit jersey is a popular fabric for dressmaking, but it can be a bit tricky to work with if you're not used to it. Not to worry because here are a few tips from a dressmaker:

 

  • Choose the right needle and thread. Use a sharp needle and a ballpoint or stretch needle, which will help to prevent the fabric from puckering. If you use a thread that is the same colour as the fabric, or a slightly darker colour it will help to make the seams less visible.
  • Set your sewing machine correctly. Set your sewing machine to a long stitch length and a low tension as this will help to prevent the fabric from stretching out.
  • Use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch to sew your seams.
  • Be careful not to overstretch the fabric. This can cause the seams to pucker. However, if you need to stretch the fabric a bit, do so gently.
  • Use a serger to finish your seams as this will help to prevent the fabric from fraying. If you don't have a serger, you can zigzag stitch over the raw edges of the fabric to finish them.

A few more tips . .

Here are a few additional handy things to know:
  • Use a pattern that is designed for knit fabrics as knit fabrics have a different drape than woven fabrics, so it's important to use a pattern that is designed specifically for them. This will help to ensure a good fit. Our huge range of patterns will often say which fabric it will suit in the description so keep an eye out.
  • Cut the fabric carefully. When cutting cable knit jersey, be careful not to stretch the fabric out.  It's important to use a sharp pair of scissors or a rotary cutter and a straight edge. Shop our sewing accessories here
  • Pin the fabric carefully. When pinning cable knit jersey, be careful not to stretch the fabric out and be sure to use sharp pins. Make sure you also pin the fabric at the seam allowances.
  • Press the seams as you go. By doing this it will help to prevent the fabric from puckering. Use a medium heat setting and press the seams flat.

With a little bit of care, cable knit jersey can be a beautiful and versatile fabric to sew with. By following these tips, you can create garments and accessories that will last for many years to come.

Share your progress with us . . . .

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